Some places capture your imagination long before you ever visit them. For years, Dungeness had been one of those places for me. There was something about its isolated landscape, quirky buildings, artistic connections and windswept reputation that made it feel completely different from anywhere else in Britain. This trip was finally our chance to see it for ourselves.
Our adventure began with a journey towards the Kent coast, with a stop at Romney Marsh along the way. Stretching across a vast area of Kent and East Sussex, Romney Marsh is often described as one of England's most unusual landscapes. Flat, open and seemingly endless, it has an atmosphere all of its own.
For centuries, the marshes have been shaped by farming, smuggling and the constant battle against the sea. Looking across the wide horizons, it wasn't difficult to imagine smugglers moving goods under the cover of darkness or shepherds tending flocks in conditions that often feel unchanged from centuries ago.
After our travels, we treated ourselves to dinner at Diamond BBQ, where we enjoyed one of the most authentic Turkish meals we've had outside of Turkey. The aromas alone were enough to make us hungry, and the food certainly didn't disappoint. Everything felt freshly prepared and full of flavour, providing the perfect end to a day on the road.
The following day included a quick stop in Dymchurch. This traditional seaside town retains much of the character that has attracted holidaymakers for generations. The wide sandy beach, promenade and sea wall all contribute to a classic British seaside atmosphere, making it a pleasant place for a brief wander before continuing our journey.
Eventually, we arrived at the destination that had drawn me here in the first place: Dungeness.
It's difficult to describe Dungeness to anyone who hasn't visited. Officially, it is one of the largest expanses of shingle in Europe, but that simple description hardly captures its character. The landscape feels almost otherworldly, with scattered fishermen's cottages, weather-beaten buildings, old railway tracks and vast open skies stretching in every direction.
What had fascinated me for years was Dungeness' connection with artists, particularly the famous Prospect Cottage. The striking black timber-clad house, decorated with yellow-framed windows, was the home of artist, writer and filmmaker Derek Jarman. Facing directly onto the shingle, the cottage became famous not only for its appearance but also for the remarkable garden Jarman created using driftwood, stones and plants capable of surviving the harsh coastal environment.
Standing nearby, it was easy to understand why artists have been drawn to Dungeness. There is a raw beauty here that feels completely unique. The landscape appears almost empty, yet somehow full of character and inspiration.
The combination of quirky cottages, abandoned boats, weathered fishing equipment and dramatic skies creates endless opportunities for photography, painting and reflection. It felt less like visiting a seaside destination and more like stepping into a living work of art.
After exploring Dungeness, we made our way to Sandgate for our overnight stop. Nestled between Folkestone and Hythe, Sandgate is a charming coastal village with a long promenade and wonderful views across the English Channel.
The next morning, we set off on a bike ride along the seafront. The route was beautiful, with the sea on one side and elegant coastal properties on the other. The fresh sea air, gentle sound of the waves and relaxed atmosphere made it one of those rides where you find yourself smiling without really knowing why.
Well... for most of the ride.
At one point, I became slightly distracted by the fact that Arnie seemed to be paying rather close attention to certain people we passed along the way. Let's just say that his observational skills appeared to be operating at maximum efficiency.
Every now and then I would notice his attention drifting, followed by a suspiciously innocent expression whenever I looked in his direction.
Of course, he denied everything.
Naturally.
The more he denied it, the more annoying it became.
As we eventually returned to Peggy and began the journey home, we reflected on another memorable adventure. From the haunting landscapes of Romney Marsh and the unique artistic heritage of Dungeness to authentic Turkish food, traditional seaside towns and coastal bike rides, the trip had delivered exactly the kind of experiences we love.
Dungeness in particular lived up to every expectation. It was every bit as strange, beautiful and inspiring as I had imagined, proving that some places really are unlike anywhere else.
And while Prospect Cottage may have been the artistic highlight of the trip, Arnie's enthusiastic people-watching probably provided the most entertainment.
Until the next adventure,
Peggy and Crew
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