Peggy’s East Yorkshire Coast Adventure: Pies, Cold Seas and Clifftop Wildlife

Published on 27 June 2025 at 14:13

Some trips in Peggy are all about big distances and dramatic landscapes. Others are about smaller journeys packed with unforgettable moments—coastal rides, freezing swims, wildlife encounters, and the simple pleasure of finding a good place to park up by the sea. Our loop around Flamborough, Filey, Hornsea, Hunmanby and the Humber Bridge had all of that and more.

We began in Hunmanby at the Pie Bald Inn, a perfect starting point for a coastal adventure. Staying overnight here set the tone immediately—warm hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere, and of course their famous pies. Rich, hearty and proper comfort food, they felt like exactly what you want before heading out into the East Yorkshire winds. It’s the kind of pub where you feel part of the place straight away, even if you’re just passing through in Peggy.

The next morning we set off on bikes towards Filey, riding down to the beach and joining the wide sweep of sand that stretches along this part of the coast. Filey itself has a long history as a traditional fishing village and later a Victorian seaside resort, but today it feels peaceful and open, with big skies and a slower pace than some of its busier neighbours.

We couldn’t resist a swim in the sea.

It turned out to be colder than we had anticipated—far colder. The kind of cold that takes your breath away the moment you enter and makes you question every life decision that led you there. But once you’re in, it’s strangely exhilarating, with the waves rolling in and the vast North Sea stretching out ahead.

After warming up, we cycled back to Peggy and continued along the coast to Flamborough Head, one of the most dramatic stretches of coastline in England.

Here the landscape changes completely. Towering white chalk cliffs rise sharply from the sea, shaped over thousands of years by wind and waves. The turquoise water below shimmered in the sunlight, making the whole scene feel almost Mediterranean—until the wind reminded us otherwise.

We cycled around the headland, stopping frequently just to take in the views. The cliffs are constantly shifting and eroding, with caves, arches and stacks forming over time as the sea carves its way into the land.

One of the highlights of Flamborough is its wildlife, and we were lucky enough to see seals—both adults and pups—resting on the shore, nursing and playing in the shallow water. Watching them from above, completely at ease in their environment, was one of those quietly special moments that sticks with you long after the trip ends.

Flamborough also has a slightly unexpected charm inland, where quirky displays and characters appear in gardens and along paths. We spotted everything from flowerpot men to figures of Harry Potter and Hagrid, a slightly surreal but very entertaining contrast to the natural drama of the cliffs. It felt like the village itself was having a bit of fun with its identity.

From Flamborough we moved on to Hornsea, a traditional seaside town with a long promenade and a large inland lake known as Hornsea Mere. Cycling around the lake was peaceful, with reeds swaying in the wind and birds skimming across the water. Hornsea has a quieter charm compared to some of the larger resorts, shaped by its history as both a fishing town and later a pottery hub famous for Hornsea Pottery.

We stayed overnight here by the sea once again, parking Peggy within earshot of the waves. Falling asleep to the sound of the North Sea is one of those simple pleasures that never really gets old—the steady rhythm of water against the shore making everything feel calm and grounded.

On the journey back home we made one final stop at the Humber Bridge Waters Edge viewpoint and café. The Humber Bridge itself is an engineering landmark, once the longest single-span suspension bridge in the world when it opened in 1981. Standing beneath it, looking out across the estuary, gives a real sense of scale—the steel structure stretching high above while the water flows endlessly beneath.

Sitting in the café with a final drink, looking back over the journey, it felt like another perfectly varied Peggy adventure. From pub pies in Hunmanby, to freezing swims in Filey, dramatic cliffs at Flamborough, peaceful lakes at Hornsea, and finally the vast expanse of the Humber—each stop completely different, but all part of the same unforgettable loop around the East Yorkshire coast.