Some journeys in Peggy feel like travelling through layers of time. This one through Essex was exactly that—Roman stonework, eerie folklore, riverside villages, and unexpected flashes of modern celebration all woven together in a single route that felt both historical and strangely alive.
We began in Colchester, Britain’s oldest recorded town. Walking the city walls immediately sets the tone here. Built by the Romans nearly 2,000 years ago, they still trace a striking circuit around the town centre, making them the longest surviving Roman-built town walls in Britain. From up on the walk, you can see modern Colchester unfolding below while fragments of its ancient past still stand proudly above it.
At the heart of the town sits Colchester Castle, built on the foundations of the Roman Temple of Claudius. The Norman castle that stands today dates back to the 11th century and has lived many lives—as a fortress, royal residence, and later even a prison. Standing beside it, it’s easy to feel the weight of nearly two millennia of history layered into a single place.
From Colchester we moved on to Brantham, staying overnight at the Bull—a traditional pub with a reputation for stories that linger longer than the drinks. In the bar, we listened to ghost tales shared by the landlady, including local legends and unexplained happenings that have been passed down over the years. One of the most chilling stories was the claim that Matthew Hopkins, the infamous Witchfinder General of the English Civil War era, is said to have drunk there during his travels. Hopkins is remembered for his role in the witch trials of the 1640s, a dark and controversial chapter in English history, and hearing his name tied to such a place added an unsettling edge to an otherwise cosy evening.
From there we parked Peggy up in Manningtree, a small riverside town on the River Stour. On the day we visited, the town was unexpectedly vibrant, with an LGBTQ+ event taking place in the streets. Colour, music and celebration filled the centre, and a drag act performing live added a joyful contrast to the otherwise quiet riverside setting. It was one of those moments where a place feels completely transformed by people and atmosphere.
From Manningtree we followed what is often referred to locally as “the witches’ path,” walking through the countryside towards Mistley. This area is strongly associated with the Witchfinder General’s era, as many of the Essex witch trials took place in nearby villages during the 17th century. Mistley itself has a dramatic history, including the remains of Mistley Towers, designed by the famous architect Robert Adam in the 18th century. Originally part of a grand church scheme, the towers now stand as striking ruins overlooking the river, giving the landscape a slightly theatrical feel.
Continuing through the woods, we came across the legendary hanging tree—another site tied to local folklore and the darker stories of Essex’s past. Whether viewed as fact, legend, or a mixture of both, the atmosphere in the woods certainly carries a sense of history that is hard to ignore.
The landscape around this part of Essex also hints at its industrial past. Along the riverside and further out towards the coast, old factories and derelict buildings sit quietly by the water—remnants of industries that once relied heavily on the estuary for transport and trade. Now they stand as faded markers of a different era, slowly being reclaimed by nature and time.
As always, Peggy provided the perfect base for moving between these worlds—ancient walls, witch trial legends, modern celebrations, and forgotten industrial edges. It’s a reminder that even within a relatively small stretch of England, history doesn’t sit still. It overlaps, collides, and sometimes surprises you when you least expect it.
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