Peggy Goes East: Cargo Ships, Lighthouse Lil and a Shark Tooth Adventure

Another weekend, another adventure in Peggy!

This time Arnie, myself and our trusty motorhome Peggy headed east to the historic port town of Harwich. As always, the plan was simple: point Peggy in roughly the right direction, hope Waze behaved itself, and see where the weekend took us.

Evening One: Ships, Sailboats and New Friends

We arrived in Harwich and secured what can only be described as a prime seafront pitch. For the evening, our entertainment came courtesy of the busy harbour. We watched enormous cargo ships being loaded and unloaded while elegant sailing boats drifted out towards the North Sea. It was surprisingly hypnotic and far cheaper than Netflix.

Harwich has been an important port for centuries, dating back to the 12th century. It played a significant role during both World Wars and was once one of England's most important naval bases. Standing on the waterfront, it's easy to imagine the countless sailors, merchants and explorers who have passed through over the years.

After settling Peggy in for the night, we wandered through the old streets of Harwich, admiring the historic buildings before finding ourselves in the wonderfully friendly Alma Inn. There we met Rich, a fellow Lincolnshire lad, proving once again that no matter where you travel, someone from Lincolnshire is never far away.

A few drinks, plenty of laughs and some excellent conversation later, we returned to Peggy for a peaceful night's sleep.

Seagull Alarm Clocks and Motorhome Dreams

The following morning we woke to glorious sunshine and the gentle sounds of seagulls performing what can only be described as an enthusiastic dawn chorus.

While enjoying the morning, we met Pete from nearby Little Oakley. Naturally, the conversation turned to Peggy and motorhomes. Pete confessed he'd always fancied owning one himself but was convinced we were exaggerating when we mentioned carrying a Harley-Davidson LiveWire motorbike in the garage.

The look on his face when Arnie opened the garage door was priceless.

To be fair, it does resemble a magician pulling a rabbit from a hat.

Breakfast at The Bottle Kiln

Breakfast called, so we made our way to The Bottle Kiln Wetherspoons.

Along the route we passed Harwich's unusual prefabricated lighthouses. These distinctive cast-iron structures were built in 1863 and remain a fascinating part of the town's maritime heritage. The low lighthouse and high lighthouse worked together to guide ships safely into harbour.

A couple of Egg Benedict's later, we were ready to explore.

Lighthouse Lil and the Brick Lighthouse

One of Harwich's most fascinating buildings is the High Lighthouse. Built in 1818, this striking brick structure guided ships for decades before eventually being converted into residential accommodation and later serving various community uses.

While learning about Harwich's history, we came across the story of the wonderfully eccentric "Lighthouse Lil." Local legend tells of Lil, who, after suffering the tragic loss of her son, became a familiar sight around town pushing her beloved cat around in a pram.

Every historic town deserves a memorable character and Harwich certainly had more than one who lived as council tennets in the lighthouse without electric or running water but with plenty of personality.

Forts, Films and Historic Streets

Next stop was the impressive Harwich Redoubt Fort.

Built during the Napoleonic Wars in 1808, the circular fort was designed to defend Britain against a feared French invasion. Thankfully Napoleon never arrived, but the fort remains one of the best-preserved examples of its kind.

We were also lucky enough to visit the Electric Palace Cinema, one of the oldest purpose-built cinemas still operating in Britain. Opened in 1911, it feels like stepping back in time. We even got the rare opportunity to go inside and view the projection area and ladder in the courtyard, which was a real treat.

Harwich is packed with fascinating history. We wandered past the house associated with Christopher Jones, master of the Mayflower, whose famous voyage carried the Pilgrims to America in 1620.

Not bad for a small Essex town.

Ice Cream and Quay-Side Daredevils

At Ha'penny Pier we enjoyed some excellent people watching.

A group of local lads entertained the crowds by launching themselves into the water below with varying degrees of style and grace. Olympic diving judges would probably have had mixed opinions.

The reward for our own efforts came in the form of ice cream. I can highly recommend the dark chocolate and pistachio flavour combination, which was absolutely delicious and worth every calorie.

LiveWire Adventures to The Naze

With Peggy safely parked, it was time to deploy our secret weapon: the Harley-Davidson LiveWire.

A ride down to The Naze provided beautiful coastal views and plenty of sea air. The Naze Tower, built in 1720, stands proudly overlooking the coastline and was originally constructed as a navigation aid and landmark for ships.

The beach walk was hot but rewarding. Among the fossils and shells, we discovered a genuine shark tooth fossil, which immediately became the find of the day.

Well, at least until the next ice cream.

We also explored the pier, although sadly much of it was closed due to ongoing structural issues with the timberwork. After our walk we headed into Walton-on-the-Naze for a well-earned cold drink and a leisurely wander around the town.

Homeward Bound via Ipswich

Rather than heading straight home, we took the scenic route.

Our first stop was Ipswich, where we parked Peggy near the waterfront. The town's architecture creates a fascinating contrast between old and new. Modern developments stand alongside historic buildings, although it was sad to see some beautiful older properties standing empty and derelict.

A walk through Christchurch Park revealed a lively music and cultural event taking place, creating a fantastic atmosphere.

We also visited Christchurch Mansion, which is free to enter and absolutely worth a look. The period rooms are beautifully preserved and the art collection is surprisingly impressive.

One Last Stop: Stowmarket

Before returning home, we made a final stop in Stowmarket.

The Museum of East Anglian Life was hosting a food festival and the whole site had a brilliant atmosphere. Entry was free and the museum is packed with working historical artefacts, vintage machinery and nostalgic toys.

There was a real community feel to the event, with food stalls, families enjoying the sunshine and plenty to see and do.

Another Weekend, Another Adventure

As we finally pointed Peggy back towards Lincolnshire, we reflected on another fantastic weekend.

From cargo ships and centuries of maritime history to fossil hunting, Harley rides, historic mansions and unexpected conversations with complete strangers, Harwich delivered far more than we expected.

As always, Peggy looked after us perfectly, Arnie successfully resisted buying any more vehicles, and I managed not to fill the motorhome with fossils, antiques and random souvenirs.

We'll call that a successful trip.

Until next time...

Peggy and crew.