They say history is everywhere in England, and this weekend Peggy proved that once again. Our faithful motorhome was pointed towards Hertfordshire for a few days of Roman ruins, market towns, electric motorbike adventures and, as always, plenty of laughs along the way.
As with many of our trips, the journey is just as important as the destination. So before we even reached St Albans, we made a very important stop in Sandy. Now, every great adventure deserves a proper fuel stop, and ours came in the shape of an Indian mixed grill.
A Noisy Welcome to St Albans
Our overnight stop near the heath in St Albans wasn't quite the peaceful countryside retreat we'd imagined. Instead, it seemed every motorbike, car and enthusiastic late-night reveller had chosen the same road. Sleep was... optional! Thankfully Peggy has survived much worse over the past year.
The following morning, it was time to unload our secret weapon. One of our favourite things about travelling is watching people's reactions when the back doors of Peggy open and out rolls our Harley-Davidson LiveWire. The expressions are priceless—most people simply don't expect a full-sized motorbike to emerge from the back of a motorhome!
While getting ready we met a lovely lady walking her adorable Charlesapoo dogs. After a wonderful chat about motorhome life, travel adventures and future plans, I was treated to plenty of puppy cuddles from the incredibly friendly young dog. Encounters like these are one of the reasons we love travelling so much.
Riding Through Nearly Two Thousand Years of History
St Albans is one of England's oldest cities and was once the Roman settlement of Verulamium, founded nearly 2,000 years ago. It later became famous as the place where Saint Alban, Britain's first Christian martyr, was executed around AD 250.
The LiveWire silently whisked us into town, although finding somewhere to park it was surprisingly difficult. For a city that's so welcoming to visitors, the lack of dedicated motorcycle parking was a real surprise.
Our first stop was the Roman Museum, and what a fascinating place it is. The beautifully preserved Roman mosaic floor immediately caught our attention. It's incredible to think these intricate patterns were created almost two millennia ago and are still stunning visitors today.
From Roman Britain we jumped forward several centuries by climbing the famous Clock Tower. Built between 1403 and 1412, it's the only surviving medieval town belfry in England. The climb is certainly worth the effort. Looking out across St Albans' rooftops was spectacular, especially the historic Boot Inn, with its distinctive timber-framed roof, and the bustling Market Place below where live music filled the air and gave the whole city a wonderfully relaxed atmosphere.
A Ride to Wheathampstead
With the Roman history explored, we headed out on the LiveWire towards Wheathampstead, a charming Hertfordshire village that often gets overlooked.
The old railway station buildings immediately caught our eye. Although the railway has long since disappeared, the station remains a lovely reminder of the days when branch lines connected so many of England's villages. Combined with attractive period buildings and peaceful streets, it made for a thoroughly enjoyable ride and a enjoyable walk along Devil's Dyke an impressive Iron Age earthwork dating back over 2,000 years. Measuring around 15 metres deep, 40 metres wide and 460 metres long, it was hand-dug by the powerful Catuvellauni tribe as part of the defences surrounding one of Britain's largest Iron Age settlements. Some historians believe the site may be linked to Julius Caesar's invasion of Britain in 54 BC and the defeat of the British leader Cassivellaunus, although this remains a subject of debate. Today, the Scheduled Ancient Monument offers a fascinating glimpse into Britain's prehistoric past and the remarkable engineering skills of its ancient inhabitants.
Harpenden... and Apparently I Smell Nice!
That evening we parked up in Harpenden, another beautiful Hertfordshire town full of character.
One of the funniest moments of the trip came in one of the local pubs. As we were finishing dinner, a younger lady gave me a cheerful smile and wave obviously I waved back. Naturally, Arie found this absolutely hilarious and hasn't stopped mentioning it since!
If that wasn't enough, in another pub the landlady informed me that I "smelled amazing" and jokingly suggested I stay all night simply so she could continue enjoying whatever perfume I was wearing.
I was fairly pleased with the compliment.
I was far less impressed when Arnie immediately replied, "You can have her!"
Thanks for the support, darling!
£16.60 for a pint of Genesis and a glass of wine!
Arnie, meanwhile, was absolutely delighted with his pint of Genesis, declaring it to be "Bedford's answer to Guinness." Judging by the smile on his face, it certainly earned his approval.
Dinner wasn't exactly cheap either. A steak for one of us and sausage and mash for the other came to around £60. Lovely food... but definitely one of those meals where you quietly check the receipt twice before leaving.
Vintage Markets and Expensive Lunches
The next morning we rode back into St Albans, parking beside the wonderful vintage and antiques market before grabbing breakfast at Wetherspoons in the old Waterend Barn building.
The market was fantastic, packed with independent traders, antiques, crafts and vintage treasures. One gentleman running a vintage clothing stall absolutely looked the part. Dressed head-to-toe in a beautifully tailored three-piece suit, complete with 1970s flared trousers and a trilby hat, he looked as though he'd stepped straight out of another era. He suited the market perfectly.
Hertford – A Hidden Gem
On the journey home we stopped in Hertford, and we're so glad we did.
Walking alongside the River Lea into the town centre was a lovely way to arrive. The historic streets are packed with beautiful buildings, but two stood out in particular.
The magnificent Salisbury Arms Hotel, with its elegant Georgian frontage, dominates part of the town and has welcomed travellers for centuries.
Nearby, Hertford Castle, originally built by the Normans shortly after 1066, was hosting a family event complete with a teddy bear hunt around the rooms. It created a wonderful atmosphere and showed just how well the town embraces its remarkable history.
One Last Stop
Before finally heading back home, we made one last stop in the lovely village of Buntingford. It was the perfect way to finish the weekend—quiet streets, attractive historic buildings and a slower pace after a few busy days exploring.
Until Next Time...
Another weekend, another adventure, and yet another reminder of why we bought Peggy back in June 2025. Whether it's discovering Roman Britain, riding silent country lanes on the LiveWire, chatting with fellow travellers, meeting friendly dogs, laughing at Arnie's quick wit, or simply wandering through beautiful market towns, every trip gives us another story to tell.
History, humour, great people, fantastic scenery and just enough expensive food to keep the bank manager interested...
We'll call that another successful weekend with Peggy.
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